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Lonely Planet Myanmar (Burma) (Travel Guide), by John Allen Allen John Smith
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Product details
Series: Travel Guide
Paperback: 408 pages
Publisher: Lonely Planet; 11 edition (December 1, 2011)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 1741794692
ISBN-13: 978-1741794694
Product Dimensions:
5 x 0.8 x 7.8 inches
Shipping Weight: 12 ounces (View shipping rates and policies)
Average Customer Review:
3.5 out of 5 stars
56 customer reviews
Amazon Best Sellers Rank:
#1,261,451 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
This review is for the Dec 2011 edition of LP Myanmar (Burma). I traveled around Myanmar in early December 2011 with the 2009 guide. This guide came out two weeks after my return, and I bought it out of curiosity; I have some comments on the update. More comments may be added as updates later.[See also: my review on Myanmar (Burma) (Insight Guides) that compares the two travel guides.]CHANGING MYANMARHave you been watching the news?Aung Sun Suu Kyi released, Oct 2010NLD Party (Aung Sun Suu Kyi's party) Ends Boycott on Myanmar TourismHillary Clinton becomes first secretary of state to visit since the 1950s, in December 2011651 political prisoners released, January 2012Myanmar is changing rapidly in what is supposed to be a transition to openness and democracy. There is wide-spread hope that "The Lady" will be able to run again for the top office in 2015, and unlike 1990, allowed to run without interference from the military junta. People are putting up pictures of "The Lady" and even her father without recrimination from the current government.Tourists have little to fear from the current government, so long as there is no suspicion that you are a journalist. I carried three cameras and other equipment with no problems. Indeed, the government requires more income, and is exploiting tourist fees (get used to it) as a means of getting it.THE UPDATE: LPMB 2011 (my abbreviation for this book, LP Myanmar (Burma) 2011)It makes a lot of sense for LP to update the book at this time: much has changed since the 2009 edition was published. This book has always had discussion about whether to go. Obviously with the boycott lifted and other political changes, there is no reason not to go, and plenty of reasons to do so soon.The exchange rate for kyatt to US dollars changed dramatically, and continues to change. It is more expensive now than in 2009, and I expect the kyatt to continue its rise in value. When LPMB 2009 was published, the grey market exchange rate was 1,200 kyatts to the US dollar. LPMB 2011 lists 785 kyatts to the dollar. One could expect an increase of 1200/785 or about 52% increase on average between the prices listed in 2009 and 2011 editions. When I visited in early December 2011, it was around 770 kyatt to the dollar, so I guess that the book went to press just a couple of weeks before I arrived.Many businesses catering to tourists will take payment only in crisp, clean, new US dollars or Euros. Since the exchange rate changed, as you can imagine, the places taking dollars now charge more of them.Unfortunately, LPMB 2011 does not seem to be up-to-date on dollar costs for important things like the cost of a taxi to or from the Yangon airport to the Bogyoke Market area. In one place, they say $8, in another, they say $7. $8 is the price listed in LPMB 2009 - in other words, LP is saying the price has not changed. I tried to get this rate from taxi drivers four times (twice of each to and from the airport) and was informed that the price is now $10. I don't think this is a matter of haggling: I think the taxi drivers have agreed on the new price. It could be a very recent change, but I think LP missed this one.The prices listed for Teakwood Guest House in Nguangsche (Inle Lake area), which is a "TOP CHOICE" place - are also out of date. LP MB 2011 says that rooms are $10-25. Mrs. Tin showed me rooms at $50, $40, and $35 per night. She explained that prices were higher because it was high season. Personally, I think this place is way above market rates and is not a good value at these prices, in part because it has been TOP CHOICE for 2009 and 2011. I know I could have gotten a better room in a better cared for hotel for the same price. I have more to say about this place in my review on tripadvisor dot com.These are just two examples which may or may not be typical, but they are prominent. One cannot expect a travel guide to have accurate prices a year after it is published, especially in a land going through such rapid change, but I am surprised that my experience was so much different from the book, which was published two weeks after my return, so it must have gone to press a month or so before. The main lessons: prices will be unpredictable; money must be paid in new US$ bills; you won't easily get them in Myanmar; therefore prepare by bringing more than you think you'll need.MORE ABOUT CURRENCY AND EXCHANGE RATESIMPORTANT. The book says this, but I will re-state because it is crucial: currently, there are few if any ATMs (I think I saw one on the road from the airport, but I bet it is local cards only), and nobody will take credit cards. You must bring US dollars or Euros in brand-new, unwrinkled, unmarked condition (they are VERY picky about this!), and change money to local when you get there. Hotels, plane tickets, and government fees require US dollars or Euros (not local currency). Bring several denominations for convenience because your change will be at a poor rate. For changing money, US$100 bills give more kyatt/$ than lower denominations, but having lower denominations gives you flexibility when you must pay in dollars.Some say the currency exchange at the airport is said to offer a decent rate, others say not so good; I did not check it. You can also search for the going rate for trading currency at Bogyoke Market, Yangon.Read up on scams related to changing money, which mainly occur outside of Bogyoke Market; I suggest you simply ignore and avoid all change money offers outside of the market.MORE ABOUT LONELY PLANET MYANMAR 2011The book is well-written and offers a lot of practical advice for visiting this interesting country. There is ample description of the most common places to visit (Yangon, Bagan, Mandalay, Inle Lake) as well as of many places off the beaten track. It also discusses areas closed to tourists, and certain restrictions such as being able to visit Taichilek only from the Thailand border, and the inability of tourists to otherwise enter or exit at this border. There is excellent coverage of the history of Myanmar and the current political climate, the latter being especially important for visitors.I was surprised at the amount of information LP provided on how to avoid paying gov fees for visiting tourist sites, etc, such as by sneaking in via off-beat entrances where the fee-paid ticket is not checked. They sort of justify it by way of saying that the current government should not be financially supported. May I offer my opinion? I think that's really questionable, especially today. Would you justify sneaking into museums or jumping over train gates in US or UK by saying you disagree with their foreign policy? I think tourists should avoid trouble by being honest, and if financing the government is a concern, don't go, because it is often unavoidable. But the government appears to be improving, and at some point skipping the tickets starts to seem opportunistic and dishonest, at least to me.This book follows the new LP structure, which is an improvement in many ways, but why not have a table of contents near the beginning? The closest they have is a list of destinations on page 34. I guess they decided the Index is all you need. Maybe that's so, but I keep looking for the table of contents as a way of learning the structure of any new book.There are TWO sections for the Bagan area - one for lodging and other logistics, another for exploring the temples. Given the importance of the Bagan temples, I can see the sense in dividing the content, but it is really inconvenient that they are not next to each other in the content: there are 23 pages between them!Still, the LP Myanmar book is a great starting point and is worth bringing with you. I recommend considerable research on the current state of affairs for anywhere you want to go. Keep up with the news, learn the history (like on wikipedia), read lots of reviews for hotels and restaurants, find out about currency rates, etc. You cannot expect ANY book to be as up-to-date as Internet reports, so be sure to do additional research.Myanmar is somewhat more challenging to visit than other southeast Asian countries at present, yet there is ample tourist infrastructure, including reasonably-priced airlines with good safety records to save time compared to buses or trains. Airlines can be delayed substantially, and certain precautions should be used. For example, do not assume that you can fly back to Yangon and then make a departure flight from Myanmar on the same day: better to schedule these for two consecutive days.INTERNET IN MYANMARIn Dec 2011, the Internet was still painfully slow. I heard somewhere that the government restricts it to 256 kbps, but the worst of it is poor response time due to resolving Web site addresses (via DNS).. Internet was available in Yangon and Mandalay, a little around Inle Lake, but not commonly available in Bagan.Hotels that offer Internet generally have weak Wifi infrastructure. Wifi will come and go. In one hotel, it only worked if I sat on a specific spot of my bed. I noted that my hotel in Mandalay had working Internet on the cable-based computer you have to pay for, but their wifi was not working; they blamed the wifi not working on the government, which is obviously bogus.The new government has reduced the number of blocked sites in Myanmar. I was astonished to discover that Facebook access was allowed, for example, but equally surprised that various innocent-seeming sites were blocked.BOTTOM LINEMyanmar is more open than it has been in years, and was certainly a safe place to visit during my recent visit. I believe it will continue to be more open. There are many tourists visiting Myanmar now (especially: Europeans and Canadians) and the locals say that they are seeing more Americans and Brits than before as well.This is a very good travel reference that has room for improvement, hence four stars. The only other one I have seen is in German.The people of Myanmar are welcoming, and the culture is fascinating. Go see it before there are even more tour buses everywhere!
Everyone will have their own opinion and agenda when visiting Burma. I like to read up on a place before visiting and this did what it was supposed to I guess, which is give me a rundown on different places to visit and places to eat. A lot of it was outdated, of course, because Burma is changing fast. The old cliche is that you need crisp U.S. bills to get by there, but that has long since been debunked because there are ATMs everywhere now. No travel guide is 100% on point and to be honest you're kind of worthless if you can't ask locals and get by once you get to a place. If I had to improve this guide, I'd put some pointers on the language and some words to get by, because I didn't see one visitor that spoke any Myanmar, and hardly any locals speak any English. Also, the locals are stoic and dignified compared to their, say, Thai neighbors, but you can make em crack a smile by greeting them in Burmese or at least making an effort.In summary, it's a cool guide to flip through, look at the pictures, read up on some of the local history, etc. but don't expect it to get you out of a jam with cutting edge info. Three stars.
For a country that has done a complete turn around, the guide was very helpful for what to expect. I traveled on business and found the history interesting and the tourist spots worthwhile. The prices were pretty close and it gave me a pretty good idea what to expect. With any country going through drastic changes, the tourist guides are going to be outdated as soon as they come off the press, but Lonely Planet is a very relevant guide to the country.I was there in November 2012 and would still recommend taking crisp (no wear marks or folds of any kind - preferably brand new) US dollar bills in various denominations. Most businesses took US dollars and would give a sliding exchange rate based on the quality of currency as well as the size - 100's get a better rate than 20's do in most places. Still no place to use credit cards or cash travelers checks... but it is coming! Watch for major growth from this country and the increased tourism to accompany. For now, I would recommend this travel guide.
Redicously outdated, but for the general info on history, people, culture, politics and all things static. Otherwise, the rapid changes have left this guide in the Burmese dust. Some hotels, restaurants and businesses no longer exist or have changed for worse. Most prices and entry fees are @ least 50 - 100% more. The supposed free LP website updates to the guide could not be located, even by my companion who does research for living. The forums have info, but is not organized and time consuming to sort through. Find a used copy in book store or in library, do basic read and fill in the rest from what is current online. As to the country, it is sinking under heaps of thrash, dust, dirt and putrid smells rising from the open sewers. W/broken, deteriorated infrastructure it is a wonder that the place works at all. Challanging travel it was, Illusion and fantasy I've put together about it from various sources, were just that! Spent three weeks there tripping over other turists, covered lot of ground, but given the choice, I would not do it again. I think that the Burmese generals are getting the last laugh, as they transport all of those crisp $100 dollars bills we've been required to use, to their Swiss bank accounts.
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